Want to discover more of Peru besides Incan ruins this Summer 2017? Check out the first of the six amazing things to see in Cusco Peru in this new series…stay tuned for the next stop!
People often wonder what there is to do in the Cusco area that is not Incan ruins. They say that one can only hear so much of Incan stories. For the most adventurous, the remaining options involve some degree of risk or adrenaline (river rafting, bungee jumping, etc.)
Fortunately for the rest of us, who thirst for something else, there are six fabulous festivities that no one should miss out when in Cusco this Summer. They are an excellent opportunity to blend with the masses and have a taste of the rich cultural and religious legacy of the Andean people.
1. The Pilgrimage to the Snow Star Mountain or the Lord of Qoyllur rit’i.
Every year in the Andean mountains south of Cusco, at the foot of the Urubamba and the Ausangate mountains, more than eighty thousand Andean people from as far as Bolivia and Argentina gather here to celebrate and worship the Snow Star Mountain or Qoyllur rit’i.
(Photo: Flavio Huamani Quejia)
The pilgrimage to the snowcapped mountains surrounding the Sinakara Valley remains resiliently more native Andean than Catholic syncretic. To immerse yourself into such a celebration is a privilege, a unique opportunity to take a journey into the past, and have a glimpse into the soul of the Andean people.
To them, the return of the Qullpa or storehouse constellation (the Pleiades) is the prelude to the celebrations of the Andean new year and the harvesting time.
A ritual like no other in the southern hemisphere is what people witness here, together with its syncretic components from both Andean and Catholic origins. The dualist interaction between the “Ukukus;” people dressed up in a costume that mimic the Andean spectacled bear, deemed by the locals as guardians of the mountains, and its counterpart the Christian cross, representative of the Spanish influence, provider of forgiveness and mercy to the people, makes this ritual fascinating. It is mindblowing how these elements shine a light to the glaring contradiction between these two mutually exclusive spiritual beliefs which act as two parts of the same whole, which makes this ritual absolutely impressive.
(Photo: Flavio Huamani Quejia)
Believe it or not, in the Andes, every single syncretic religious celebration is accompanied by copious amounts of corn beer and alcohol, but this one is unique and exceptional. At Qoyllur rit’i, alcohol is not permitted, the energy and fervor of thousands of people dancing to the beat of the “chakiri,” a kind of tantric song of profound mysticism is what serves as a vehicle to connect the people with the mountains and the stars.
Details:
Dates: From June 9 to June 14, 2017
Location: Mahuayani, Ocongate
Trip details: 3 hours by car from Cusco and 4 hours hiking from Mahuayani. The hike to Qoyllur rit’i starts at 4089 meters and ends at 4560 meters. Unlike the Inca Trail Trek or The Salkantay Trek, the hike to Qoyllur rit’i is a steady climb along 8 km or 5 miles.
Weather. Freezing. 25F -5C
Logistics:
-You can rent a horse ride to Q’oyoriti from Mahuayani. Prices differ based on supply and demand. Base price is S/.50 Peruvian soles or $16USD.
-If you are planning to stay at Q’oyoriti overnight, then you must be prepared for camping at high altitude. Proper camping gear is required, camping tents, sleeping bags, and sleeping pads are a must.
-Cooking at the campsite might be necessary if you are not adventurous enough to eat the food that local vendors sell.
-Toilets are very basic; you need to take your own toilet paper.
-Take bottle water for drinking and personal use. It is possible to buy it at the sanctuary itself but at higher prices.
Have you heard of the remaking of the Qeswachaka bridge in Cusco? Check out this ancient Andean symbol of cooperation and community that silently survived.
2. The remaking of the Qeswachaka bridge is also about remaking invisible human bridges.
What happens at the remaking of the Qeswachaka bridge is more than the physical weaving and putting together of the bridge across the Apurimac River.
If Qoyllur rit’i shines a light on the ancient religious legacy of the Andean peoples, then the building of the Qeswachaka bridge brings back to life the unwavering commitment of the Andean people to the only means of ancestral organization for collective work that they knew during pre-Columbian times. Such a device guaranteed the survival of their people, and it was called Minka in the Quechua language. The Minka is an ancient form of collective work that joins many Aillus or tribes around a common task of mutual importance.
To witness what happens in June of every year at Qeswachaka transcends what the eyes can perceive upon observing just the technical aspect of building a tension bridge using ropes made of the Andean grass or Qoya ichu as the locals call it. Indeed, it challenges what our contemporary minds can understand from a notion of commodity exchange relating to other human beings by looking at the underlying cultural aspects that have silently survived for centuries after the arrival of the Spaniards.
The Qeswachaka experience brings back to life a lot more than just building a grass bridge. What was carefully enshrined in the ancient practices of building this bridge is the enduring legacy of the Andean peoples on how humans ought to behave to ensure sustainability and peace.
Building bridges in pre-Columbian times was also a metaphor for how communities should come together to jointly renew both the physical boundaries that divided them as well as the ideological ones. Based on a dualist understanding of reality, Andean people understood clearly that a physical bridge was meaningless if the social bonds that tie them together were not as robust.
In building a bridge like Qeswachaka, they were also ensuring the renewal and preservation of the social fabric of their communities. In the Andean symbolism of creation and reproduction, and as a metaphor for fertility; the women of the Andean communities in charge of rebuilding this bridge were the ones in charge of weaving the first small grass ropes or Qheswas. In contrast, as a reflection of their patriarchal roots, men will be the ones who will turn these ropes into the massive cords or Qheswaskas that would sustain the tension bridge. All of this being, just a part of a ritual of higher significance.
(Photo: Miguel Angel Gongora Meza)
The remaking of the Qeswachaka bridge is a celebration of what collective work, together with ancient technology and traditional knowledge can achieve, both metaphorically and literally. Andean people were well aware that the know-how to build a bridge was of utmost importance only if the ones entrusted with such knowledge were benefiting the collective. Fortunately for them, and for us, outside visitors, this legacy has survived,
The chewing of enormous amounts of coca leaves, the drinking of copious jars of corn beer, the dancing and celebration will follow the final meeting of the two bridge makers or chakaruhakunas who will weave the bridge from opposite sides of the river. In the end, all of it will symbolize the bringing together of both social, and physical gaps.
Facts: The Qeswachaka bridge spans for 90ft or 60 meters. It can withstand up to 1800 kg or 4000 pounds of tension. The Inca people build as many as 200 tension bridges throughout a network of Incan roads across their territory, some of them bigger than the Qeswachaka bridge. One of the foundations for such Inca bridges is located at Qoriwairachina, serving as an entry point to the classic Inca Trail that leads to Machu Picchu. Scholars believe that the Inca road system extended for almost 20,000 miles/32,000 km. In 2014, the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian sponsored a symposium on Incan roads and Incan bridges. Also, in 2015, they built a replica of the Incan bridge of Qeswachaka at its facilities in Washington DC.
Getting there:
-Trip details: 4.0 hours by car from Cusco.
-If your plan is to attend and stay the three days of the remaking of the Qeswachaka bridge, then you must be prepared for camping at high altitude. Proper camping equipment is required, camping tents, sleeping bags, and sleeping pads are a must.
-Some local families at Huinchiri can host visitors during the days of the ritual.
-Warm clothing, hats, and gloves are crucial for the afternoon part of the celebration. Sun hat and sunscreen for during the day are imperative.
(Video: SmithsonianNMAI/YouTube)
Miguel is a Peruvian professional tour guide from Cusco, he has been leading tours throughout Peru for almost 20 years. Graduated from the Tupac Amaru Institute School of Tourism in Cusco, Peru, he has a vast knowledge of the rich cultural and ecological diversity of his beautiful country. Miguel specializes in leading tours to the Inca Trail and other alternative routes to Machu Picchu, such as the Choquequirao and Salkantay treks. Since 2003, he has traveled to the US and other countries to lecture about cultural appropriation and sustainable tourism. Miguel is a strong advocate of ecotourism and science. He values the role that tourists play in the development and protection of sensitive cultures and ecosystems and dedicates his work to raise the awareness of such players with the aim of furthering such a powerful tool. Also, he is the co-founder of Evolution Treks Peru a worker-owned travel company based in Cusco.
We have reached #3 of the 6 Amazing Things to See series! Check out the Andean day of the dead happening this June 15 in Cusco.
Check out the Related Articles to the left to catch up on #1 and #2.
3. The Corpus Christy Procession: the Catholic syncretic version of the Andean day of the dead.
Andean people believed that like a tree, their lives meant nothing without their roots. In this framework of thinking, the worshiping of the mummified bodies of their ancestors was essential to their lives and their livelihood. After all, it was the Mallquis or ancestors who were the ones making sure that the reproduction of the livestock, the health of their people and the production of the agricultural fields were prosperous.
One can imagine the faces of horror and disbelief of the Spanish Catholic priests when they learned that the Incan people paraded these bodies around the main square of Cusco. The Spanish historical accounts are quite clear at describing their reaction to such practices, which is a dark and sinister episode called the extirpation of idolatries by their authors. It was a time in which the Spaniards banned every single Andean religious ritual by killing and torturing the ones who practiced them and destroying every form of such religious beliefs.
It is not difficult to imagine the desperation and the thinking that the Incan people put into finding an ideal way of preserving these traditions under such persecution and destruction. Some Incan people went to extreme lengths of sacrifice to save at least the content of their beliefs, if not the form. Today, it is barely understood the disruption of the cataclysmic effect that such events must have had on the minds of the Andean people and how they then related to their ancestors or Mallquis.
But in the midst of chaos and destruction, hope flourished in the minds and hearts of these people when they saw in the same Spanish religious practices, an opportunity to save their beliefs and a great chance to pass them onto the next generations.
The beginning of the religious syncretism between the Catholic beliefs and the Andean ones was inevitable. Slowly, inadvertently and without a conscious effort, the Incan people understood that in including the traditional and cultural aspects of their Andean religious practices into these newly imposed Catholic rituals, the continuation of their religious traditions would have a chance to survive.
And this is what we see in the traditional celebrations of the Corpus Christi nowadays, when thousands of Andean people, some of them direct descendants of the Inca kings themselves, celebrate a Christian holiday, parading Catholic saints while performing an ancient celebration to their dead people.
The Andean death mummies of the ancestors are no longer part of the rituals. Instead, the Catholic saints play the role of the Mallquis; on the surface, they are the ones receiving the reverence of the people. But the celebration, the dances, the music, the food and the calendar itself which coincides with the other Andean rituals like the Pilgrimage to the Snow Star Mountain or Qoilluriti, remain undoubtedly Andean.
During the Corpus Christy celebration, the different groupings of people carrying a different statue of a Catholic saint representing different neighborhoods in Cusco, just like the Incan royal families did six centuries ago, is a big part of what remains from the Andean day of the dead.
Same thing happens with the other cultural elements of this festivity such as the tantric music heard at Qoilloritti and the Ukuku. The Ukuku, mimicking the Andean spectacled bear, carry pieces of ice that they bring from the glacier, symbolically watering the soil underneath them to make it more fertile.
Finally, the traditional food for this particular date is none other than a cold trail mix of different Andean products called Chiri Uchu; which is a travelers food, that does not need to be refrigerated. Chiri Uchu is the perfect food for this festivity, as people who walk many miles from different areas of Cusco area need to feed themselves without taking too many breaks for cooking along the way. It contains roasted corn and roasted guinea pigs, corn bread and llama jerky amongst other Andean products. Traditional food is another example of how threatened cultural symbols can survive violence and disruption while preserving within it part of the soul and the history of the people who ate it.
In synthesis, no matter what people watch in the Corpus Christi celebration, they can see in the background, the worshipping of the Mallquis or Andean ancestors, the continuation of life as it was and is still conceived in the Andean world.
Details:
Dates: June 15th, 2017
Location: Cusco City
Weather: Warm during the day 23C and Cold at night, 40F 3C
What to do to get the most out of it
Follow one of the processions from one of their neighborhoods to have a more local experience
The San Sebastian and San Jeronimo processions are the ones where most participants are Quechua speakers, descendants of the ancient Incan royal families
Eat Chiri Uchu in one of the stands at the main square of Cusco.
Miguel is a Peruvian professional tour guide from Cusco, he has been leading tours throughout Peru for almost 20 years. Graduated from the Antonio Lorena Institute School of Tourism in Cusco, Peru, he has a vast knowledge of the rich cultural and ecological diversity of his beautiful country. Miguel specializes in leading tours to the Inca Trail and other alternative routes to Machu Picchu, such as the Choquequirao and Salkantay treks. Since 2003, he has traveled to the US and other countries to lecture about cultural appropriation and sustainable tourism. Miguel is a strong advocate of ecotourism and science. He values the role that tourists play in the development and protection of sensitive cultures and ecosystems and dedicates his work to raise the awareness of such players with the aim of furthering such a powerful tool. Also, he is the co-founder of Evolution Treks Peru a worker-owned travel company based in Cusco.
Have you been to Cusco’s most popular religious and cultural event of the year?! Check out the story behind the Inti Raymi Celebration of the Sun.
To catch up on article #3 in this series, click here!
4. The Inti Raymi or Party of the Sun.
June is the month of celebrations for Cusco’s anniversary. During this month the local people from Cusco engage in all sorts of cultural activities to honor their beloved city. As descendants of the Inca, the Cuzquenian people are consistent with the traditional and cultural legacy of their ancestors, who for millennia have been celebrating the Winter Solstice as the most important day of the year.
Such a celebration is a continuation of what the ancient Andean astronomers understood of astronomical phenomena such as solstices and equinoxes. June 20th marks the arrival of the Winter Solstice for the people who live in the southern hemisphere. In fact, it is the shortest day of the year, which in the Incan mythical and religious astronomical understanding, represented the time to worship their father, Inti, the sun, of whom they claimed to be his children.
Despite all the horrific events that accompanied the arrival of the Spaniards -the sudden collapse of the Incan empire, and the prohibition of all Incan rituals that were associated with Satan according to the European mindset of the time – the Incan civilization remained in place for long enough to enable the Spanish chroniclers to record a vast amount of information regarding the cultural and religious practices of the Incan people.
The truth is, that it was a local mestizo writer called Inca Garcilazo de la Vega who wrote in detail about the important aspects of the Inca’s most significant religious celebration called Inti Raymi or celebration of the sun. Garcilazo, the son of an arranged marriage between an Incan princess and a Spanish captain, born merely two years after the arrival of the Spaniards to Cusco, in 1534, was able to witness these events firsthand while growing up in Cusco.
(Photo: Wikimedia)
It is because of this historical account that on June the 24th, thousands of people gather in the central plaza of Saqsaywaman to witness an array of hundreds of actors and volunteers performing a play of the highest Incan religious ritual, the Inti Raymi.
During Incan times, this Incan religious ceremony took place at the center of the current main square of Cusco or Aucaypata, but currently, it takes place at Saqsaywaman, the Incan temple with megalithic rocks located on one of the mountains overlooking the city of Cusco.
What we know from Garcilazo’s description and what is re-enacted during the play of the Inti Raymi is fascinating. The actors performing in this re-enactment are deeply immersed in the roles they represent, perfectly bringing back to life an ancient ritual that immaculately portrays the magical connection of the Andean people with the Sun.
On a different dimension of how faithful to Garcilaso’s writing this play is, the entire performance is carried out in the native Quechua language of the Incan people which is spoken by every participant of this event. The individuals in charge of the scenography managed to recreate with such a craftsmanship, key elements of the Incan life such as the dances, the clothing and the ritual items used during this performance.
The play itself runs off a script written by the Cuzquenian artists Faustino Espinoza Medrano in the year 1944. In it, the Sapan Incan or Emperor, a self-proclaimed son of the sun god, together with the highest Incan religious priest, called Willak Umu, would initiate the rituals after a period of purification, sexual abstinence, and fasting. The first ritual, they perform by paying reverence to the Maquis or mummified bodies of the previous kings stored at the Inticancha or temple of the sun, and afterward, by proceeding to observe a complex astronomical, almost forgotten, system of projections of sunlight over a carved rock that they called Succancas or sundials.
Over this stone, and upon receiving confirmation from the highest priest and other astronomers, the Incan king and the highest Incan priest would sacrifice a young black llama by cutting open its thorax, with the purpose of foreseeing an omen in the still beating heart and lungs of this creature. An omen that would reveal to them the year they were about to start; a revelation about the health of the King, the Empire, the relationship with other gods and all of the other things necessary to maintain a powerful empire.
It is then when the Incan emperor breaks his fasting by soaking a piece of cornbread in the blood of the sacrificial llama and drinks a cup of corn beer, served in two Keros or wooden cups, making a symbolic toast with his father the sun. What follows after, is the dramatic speech of the Incan king to his people and the beginning of the official celebrations for the Winter Solstice through the whole territory of the Incan empire.
Something important to remember here is the silence of both tourists and locals throughout the entire performance, which adds an impressive dose of mysticism to the whole performance.
Facts:
The Spaniards banned this celebration in 1535.
The original date of this celebration was June 21st or June 20th according to the arrival of the Winter Solstice.
Thousands of people from all across the Incan empire would come to Cusco to witness these celebrations and to render loyalty to the Incan kings.
Most participants in this celebration are volunteer soldiers of the Peruvian army.
The sacrifice of the black llama is only feigned during the play.
Details:
Dates: June 24th, 2017
Location: Saqsaywaman archaeological site, Cusco.
Trip Details: 1-hour walking
Weather: Warm during the day 23C/76F
Tickets and reservations are necessary to access the stands placed by the organizers.
Miguel is a professional Peruvian tour guide from Cusco, he has been leading tours throughout Peru for almost 20 years. Graduated from the Antonio Lorena Institute School of Tourism in Cusco, Peru, he has a vast knowledge of the rich cultural and ecological diversity of his beautiful country. Miguel specializes in leading tours to the Inca Trail and other alternative routes to Machu Picchu, such as the Choquequirao and Salkantay treks. Since 2003, he has traveled to the US and other countries to lecture about cultural appropriation and sustainable tourism. Miguel is a strong advocate of ecotourism and science. He values the role that tourists play in the development and protection of sensitive cultures and ecosystems and dedicates his work to raise the awareness of such players with the aim of furthering such a powerful tool. Also, he is the co-founder of Evolution Treks Peru a worker-owned travel company based in Cusco.
Once the capital of the Incan Empire, Cusco city has become one of the most visited Andean cities in Peru! Located 3,399 meters above the sea in the heart of the Andes, discover the Incan ruins, the Spanish colonial architecture and the Peruvian culture that saturates the streets.
Are you a bird lover and would like to see the endangered Condor soar its wings?
5. The Condors lookout at Chonta, Limatambo, Cusco
Most travelers are quite familiar with the impressive flying of the Condors at the Mirador del Condor in the Colca Canyon in Arequipa. Condors are one of the most vulnerable and endangered species in the Andes and to have a chance of seeing them fly in their natural environment is quite a privilege.
However, one does not need to go all the way to Colca to see the Condors. The Condor lookout at Chonta offers a unique opportunity for those travelers who wish to go off the beaten track and experience such a wonderful sighting.
Chonta is located in the mountains flanking the Apurimac Canyon, one of the deepest in the world. It is a place that if not for these beautiful gigantic flying birds, would otherwise be confined to its fate as another farming town. At 3,400 meters of altitude, with an impressive view of the Salkantay Mountain and the Vilcabamba Mountain range, Chonta becomes the perfect place for these birds to survive and be protected by the local people living in this area.
(Photo: Flavio Huamani Quejia/Facebook)
The spectacular flying of these birds can be seen twice during the day. The first one, early in the morning, right after the sunrise. And the second one in the afternoon before sunset.
The impressive display of beauty and majesty of the flying of these birds brings back to mind the reasons why they were once considered gods by the Incan people, who erected for them many temples for worship like the ones at Machu Picchu and Ollantaytambo.
It is such a breathtaking experience to see them gliding around the area as if they were purposely performing their moves to entertain the few people who gather there to watch them. Sometimes they dive as close as thirty feet away from the visitors, exposing their massive wingspan, which reaches up to ten feet in some cases. Their wings don’t move, but they can ascend quickly and gain a lot of altitude in a matter of seconds. Perhaps that is why they were considered messengers of the mountain gods; they can climb so high with no effort and tame the air currents, which is something only they can do. The whole show lasts for about an hour before they slowly disappear into the depths of the Apurimac canyon, so they can come back the next day and perform the same show all over again.
Condors can be seen flying in the areas nearby the Ausangate and Salkantay Mountains and sometimes on the Inca trail as well. However, they do not live in these regions, and their presence is only intermittent. Historically, Condors have inhabited areas all throughout the Andes in South America. Sometimes they can be seen on the coast and in the Amazon basin, but human activity has forced these animals to move to more isolated areas where they struggle for survival.
(Photo: Flavio Huamani Quejia / Facebook)
The people from the community in Chonta are the ones responsible for the protection of this area and the promotion of this wonderful event. It is because of their efforts in the preservation of these animals and their natural habitat that people can enjoy such an incredible show.
Details:
Dates: All year around
Location: Chonta, Limatambo, Cusco
Weather: Warm during the day 23C /73 F
How to get there:
Take a minivan leaving from Paradero Arcopata, Cusco to Mollepata, two hours more or less. From Mollepata, take a “combi” to Chonta. 45 minutes approx.
Walk from Chonta to the Condor lookout. One hour approx.
What to do to to get the best out of it:
Stay in the designated areas for people to watch the condors.
Do not scream, or make loud noises. Condors are noise sensitive animals.
Do not wear bright colors, red, orange or similar colors.
The Gaudet family takes on the streets of Cusco and the magnificent Machu Picchu for their final adventure in Peru.
My family had been traveling Peru for over 2 months when we arrived in Cusco. We had taken another all-day bus ride that had brought us from Puno, located on the shores of Lake Titicaca. We rented a small traditional apartment from a local teacher that was set far back in a residential block situated close to the center of the historic district. Tired from our recent travels we took our days slow, wandering the cobblestone streets of our new neighborhood, exploring the many parks, churches, and restaurants. The San Pedro market was a family favorite, we would walk each of the colorful aisles to see all that the merchants had to offer before buying our groceries. We enjoyed taking chocolate making classes at a chocolate museum and were swept up in more than one Semana Santa parade.
(Photo: Michelle Gaudet/Living in Peru)
A highlight of our time in Cusco was a day trip to visit the Cochahausi Animal Sanctuary. The sanctuary offers refuge for Peruvian animals that have been injured or abused. Our family appreciated learning more about the animals and having a chance to see them up close. After a couple of weeks of staying in Cusco, we said goodbye with the plan of returning for an extended period after our trip to Machu Picchu.
While making our plans to visit Machu Picchu I had come across the village of Urubamba, nestled in the middle of the Sacred Valley with a bustling market and many Incan sites nearby. It seemed like the perfect base to explore the region. Travel from Cusco to Urubamba was quick and easy by collectivo, and within a couple hours, we were at a small family run hostel named Pakakuna Posada Gourmet that would be our home for the next week until we traveled on to Machu Picchu. The laid-back atmosphere and friendly people of the village made it easy to feel at home. My husband Mark who is a little more on the adventurous side spent a day at the Natura Vive Ziplines and Skylodge* which are located high above the Sacred Valley. Our hostel hosts introduced us to a local driver who drove us around to many small towns in the area which were home to sites of interests like the Salinas de Maras and Moray.
Our mornings were spent hiking the mountainside trails to find unmarked ruins locals had told us about and our afternoons walking into town to visit the market and Plaza de Armas. One-half of the young couple running the hostel was also a trained chef who runs an amazing Peruvian fusion restaurant onsite where we would eat delicious freshly prepared local meals with Pisco Sours underneath the stars in the evenings.
Aguas Calientes (Photo: Michelle Gaudet/Living in Peru)
While In Urubamba we received a phone call that would change the direction of the trip and our lives. My father who had been diagnosed with cancer before we left and had been managing with his illness had taken a turn for the worse and was no longer responding to treatment. We made the decision that we needed to cut our trip short and return home. After speaking to my parents and conversation with the airline to book new return tickets we decided to still make our way to Aguas Calientes to visit Machu Picchu before our flight home to Canada a week and a half later.
We boarded the Peru Rail train at the Ollantaytambo train station that would take us to Aguas Calientes the small tourist town located near Machu Pichu. We stayed in a hostel above a mystic store, almost at the highest point of the village, near the hot springs. Our visit to Aguas Calientes would be a quick one with only two nights there before having to return. On our second day, we woke up well before sunrise and made our way down to the buses that take the thousands of travelers daily to the gates of Machu Picchu. Within minutes of making our way through the entrances gates and down the first trail, we were caught in awe at the beauty and magnificence that is Machu Picchu at daybreak when the fog starts to lift. We spent our day walking in and amongst the ruins in wonder of the sacred space. I was humbled by our day at Machu Picchu and can see why people travel from all over the word to visit. On the day after our visit to Machu Picchu, it was already time for us to take the train to Ollantaytambo where we would travel back to Cusco and prepare for our flight to Lima and eventually back to our home in Toronto, Canada.
Maras, Sacred Valley (Photo: Michelle Gaudet/Living in Peru)
It has been a little over a year since we have returned to Canada from our Inspired Adventure in Peru. I am infinitely grateful that my family had the chance to experience and explore the beautifully diverse country that is Peru. The kind, and spirited people we met as well as the stunning landscapes will be forever carried in our hearts and minds. Our travels in Peru have inspired me to want to help others to experience the beautiful world around us. I am currently working towards opening a travel and tour company that will offer family adventure travel and retreats to Canadians wanting to experience more culture and significance from their travels. One of the first retreats I have planned is to the Sacred Valley. Peru, nos vemos.
Michelle Gaudet is a Canadian writer, artist, and photographer. Last year Michelle and her family took their first family travel adventure backpacking southern Peru for 3 months. She currently lives in Canada while traveling and worldschooling with her family as much as possible. Michelle is the Director of Digital and Social Media for Spiritual Niagara and is building a new career in travel focusing on family adventures and group retreats. You can find her family’s adventures on “Instagram”:www.instagram.com/Inspiredtraveladventures .
The Coca Museum in Cusco is an homage to the leaf that has become one of Peru’s most important cultural symbols while examining the more sinister guise it has taken on in the modern era.
The coca leaf is perhaps the most simultaneously loved and hated plant product in all of Peru. It has thousands of years of cultural significance because of its use as a mild stimulant (chewed) in every day Andean life, all of which are threatened by misuse in the form of cocaine in the modern era. At the same time that thousands of tourists come to Cusco curious to try coca tea to alleviate their altitude headache, the Peruvian government is running a massive coca eradication operation in Peru’s jungle regions.
Cusco’s Coca Museum, located on San Blas square, doesn’t leave any of this out. Guides are available to walk visitors through the art, artifacts, and other exhibitions related to the Inca’s sacred leaf.
In reality, coca is harmless by itself, and may even have medical properties (like coffee). Cocaine is the main alkaloid that must go through a chemical process to become a highly addictive drug. Like most things, humans make it good or evil.
For these reasons and more, the Coca Museum in Cusco may be worth a stop if you are in the city. It’s one of those places you might think “I could take it or leave it,”but it’s exactly those kinds of places that can surprise and teach you the most. Understanding coca is an important element to understanding the Andean culture, past and present.
Have you been to the Coca Museum? Let us know what you think here at Living in Peru.
Have you ever woken up and thought about your life, wishing you could add some flair to your reality?
My mundane existence was seemingly void of out-of-country visits for the better part of my life except for a few family vacations; it was time to step it up a notch. When it came to location, it had to be something exotic, but somewhere that people normally wouldn’t automatically think to go.
Peru, in my mind at least, is one of the most perfect destinations on the planet to venture to. It has so much culture, legends, mystery, and nearly every environment imaginable to explore. In a previous time when my young mind yearned for more information, I turned to ancient history texts or classic literature, and my personal studies brought me to the glorious Incan culture. The center of their empire culminated in what is now Cuzco, Peru, which is clearly visible in the facades of the numerous buildings jettisoning out from the ground. Perusing pages whisked me to the detailing of a feat meant for only the most serious of adventurers, a great hike, or mountain climb depending on who you ask. What did I do next? I put on my Indiana Jones hat, attached myself to a leather satchel, and elevated to several thousand feet in the air to find my inner archaeologist.
(Photo: Garrett Heng/Living in Peru)
My Aunt made this trip entirely possible, and every bit of thanks goes to her. I discovered not only more about myself, but I learned to always be myself, and not a person that someone else wanted me to be. I also discovered perseverance, which was a necessity on the Inca Trail, the main point of our travels to Peru.
(Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
Several centuries ago, the Incan empire reigned supreme throughout a large part of Western South America. If you observe the map of their empire, you will notice how widespread it truly was.
From the southernmost point to the northernmost, you will notice how vast a distance it is. How does one maintain an empire with no direct line of communication? You walk. Weaving between majestic mountains, hopping over great heights, and plowing through dense jungles is exactly what the Incan empire designed the trail to do. The people that transmitted messages throughout the empire are still visible today in the form of guides and porters, just like the original trail itself.
The Inca Trail, or Camino Inka, is most commonly a four or five-day hike. Some guides are able to make it longer, but after that period of time, I was well invested in my surroundings. These time limits are enough to disassociate yourself with the modern world and erase any traces of addiction toward your cell phone. My hike included a guide, porters to carry heavy equipment, and a group of travelers from all walks of life.
(Photo: Garrett Heng/Living in Peru)
My group was fortunate enough to develop a great bond that I haven’t been able to replicate anywhere else. If I were to perform one of the top-rated hikes in the world like the Inca Trail again, I wouldn’t want to do it with anyone else. Keeping in line with my goal, I acclimated to the altitude by engulfing vast quantities of coca tea, and several days of exploration within the diverse confines of Cuzco.
Want to know more about the author’s unique love for coca tea? Click here.
In the early hours of a December morning, with whimsical thoughts of the whirlwinds of snow most likely plaguing my home, my Aunt and I awoke to gather our things to be picked up outside of our hotel. Our guide, several porters, and a host of expectant journeyers awaited what was to come with fervent energy. All of us came from different walks of life, coming together to share in a mutually beneficial experience.
Traversing thin roads silently preluded the journey laid out before us, and as we arrived at the final destination where our vehicle was stationed, we exited to behold only the beginning of the beautiful sights. Crisp air, shooting spires of elegant rock, and a well-traveled trail loomed ahead of us. It was time to start our hike. One foot in front of the other led to premonitions of future leg strain, as inclines slowly increased, and large steps started dotting the surface of the trail. This was only the beginning though, and much more adventure was yet to come.
(Photo: Garrett Heng/Living in Peru)
If you don’t stop to take a look around you every once in a while, something special might be missed. At several different points throughout my journey, when I stopped to observe my surroundings, I witnessed the Urubamba River, the Sacred Valley, and of course, the Andes mountains traveling with me wherever I went. The river thoughtfully helped you leave behind sorrows, the valleys thankfully let your imagination run wild, and the mountains heightened spirits during the entire trek. As opposed to other hikes which are just that, you will come across ancient ruins periodically that are peacefully maintained by the enthusiastic Quechua speaking native, or the hungry alpaca eating away the remains of any grass that grows too tall.
Thoughts begin to run wild as to who exactly lived there and what these people were really like. Plenty of documentation exists thanks to the conquistadors and monks that lived among the Incas as to who these people were, but the devastation that ensued when the empire was wiped out was irreparable. Thankfully the pleasant reminders of the past persisted as the landscape unfolded before us. Several popular sites such as Winaywayna, Llactapata, Sayacmarca, and of course, Machu Picchu, are visible on the way to that epic final destination.
If you are feeling lucky, or at least experiencing the absence of soreness, you can take a few more hours to hike up to the top of Huayna Picchu. I, unfortunately, was unable to access this site because of how dead tired we were, but this site is even higher up than the classical Machu Picchu. It was almost hard to believe that someone could build something so majestic like Machu Picchu, let alone Huayna Picchu.
Even though Machu Picchu was a grand attraction, that alone only encompassed a small percentage of our travels. The grandness of the mountains that stretched out in all directions was one of my biggest enjoyments. Several shades of green hued with multicolored craggy rocks to create a palate of warmth and comfort. Some mountains were capped off with snow, creating an unforgettable vision of loving solitude and everlasting infinity. Hummingbirds loved to twinkle in and out of existence between the trees, and on one occasion, a terrified full grown horse almost plowed us clear off of the path.
There are a few dozen families that live within the confines of the Inca Trail, and at the end of a long day, an ice cold Cusquena beer was just what I needed to relax. These families offered refreshments, snacks, and plenty of warmth, as I’m entirely sure that they are used to people from all over the world traversing in their backyard. As the days grew old, we humbly awaited the lunches and dinners that were elegantly prepared for us, weary travelers. Local produce and livestock were used, and a memorable tasting session of Pisco Sours encapsulated our taste buds to the point of no return. If you didn’t eat anything of significance before the hike, you will most certainly be privy to the tastes of Peru with your native chefs that work hard for your comfort. The porters are also in charge of setting up the campsites, which are constructed before you even reach the final steps of each day. After you reach camp, you will find a relaxing place to speak to your group or catch up on some meditation.
(Photo: Garrett Heng/Living in Peru)
Machu Picchu is certainly a destination to behold, and of course, it is one of the most popular tourist destinations. The popularity of this site has only been rising in recent history, adding more to one of Peru’s biggest imports, tourism. You can either take the train ride in relative comfort or take the road less traveled, literally. You won’t be disappointed if you take the latter, and many come out of it a whole new person with a brand new perspective on life in general.
We don’t need materialistic comforts, we don’t need that morning cup of coffee every day, all you need is yourself and the thoughts that hold you in place within this world. Peace will surround and hold you together as you peer off into the distance, wondering if there are new ruins yet to be discovered on the other side of the next mountain. Why don’t you go and find out?
Souvenirs, be it a painting, tea or shirt, displaying those objects upon your return helps extends your journey. Now how to choose the perfect one for you in Peru!
(Photo: Flickr)
When we travel to distant locations, we end up wanting to bring something back with us that memorializes the experience. Something that can personify our experiences, or at the very least conjure up images of our most cherished memories of our time there. For me personally, the items I brought back with me from Peru make me want to return exponentially with each passing day. Isn’t that what we want, whether openly or not? To be brought back to the time and place these memories were purchased? Thought and patience will serve you well, in addition to your own uniquely tailored interests.
Here are my thoughts on the process involved in this traveling tradition.
When I first stepped into the local market in Cuzco, Peru, I was experiencing something that I couldn’t anywhere else. Hanging hunks of meat, enthusiastic stall owners, and fine wares intermingled with local citizens and expensive jewelry. Sensory overload created a situation in which it took me much longer to find the things I needed. When you do calm down from all of the commotion and excitement, you can relax and think about the things that are most important to you. What kinds of things do you cherish, and what types of trinkets have you had success with in the past? Some people find things that they can wear like clothing or jewelry, or something that they will continue to use like a bottle opener. I find those types of items pretty quickly, but searching as if you’re trying to find the lost city of the Incas itself will deliver you treasures untold, and long-lasting memories.
My most cherished souvenir came to me while standing close to the golden statue of Pachacutec himself.
The colorful Pisac market (Photo: Free public domain)
Men and women will most certainly get on your nerves as they incessantly try to push their products on you. It’s best to hide annoyance as their income solely depends on you. They have to give a generous portion to their employer as well. I brought back with me a painting that can be viewed every time I walk into my house. A vision that lets me imagine the streets of Cuzco very vividly. Clothing can also help to bubble your memory logs into effervescence. A nice alpaca wool sweater helped carry my enthusiastic explorer mentality everywhere I went.
What else could you possibly find beyond these things that could hold any value whatsoever?
Beautiful Peruvian textiles (Photo: Free public domain)
Consumables expire or are devoured quickly, but seeing as how I consider myself a tea enthusiast, I found a box of coca leaf tea, which is considered a local staple. Do not attempt to bring actual leaves home with you, because the possibility of a stay in a Peruvian prison is a reality. Prepackaged tea bags are allowed to be brought back home though. Tastes and smells are the biggest triggers for memories long gone, and I quickly found myself right back in the middle of the Andes mountains while sitting in my living room sipping on a mug of coca tea.
To read more about coca tea adventures: click here.
Beyond other materialistic things, you will most certainly have stories to take home with you as well, which are as good as any souvenir.
The greatest thing you can do to increase the likelihood of having memories to recall is just getting out there and immersing yourself in the culture. Find a museum, discover an incredible restaurant, follow a tour guide, and make sure to take some pictures! Take that leap and step out of your comfort zone. Most of all, vacations can bring even the most distant enemies to the forefront of companionship. Stranger things have certainly happened in this wide world. Why not let your travels take you to Peru, and see what you’ll take home!
Every year millions of tourists flock to “The Lost City of the Incas” which is perched atop the craggy 8,000 feet high hilltop in the middle of Andes.
A mystery to travelers and historian alike a trip to this UNESCO World Heritage Site is amust-do for travelers in Peru. If you are looking forward to visiting the historic ruins as an independent traveler then keep reading this article where we are going provide you with a few tips to make your trip worthwhile.
1. Getting there by bus and train
If you are not ready to hike up the Inca trail to Machu Picchu then your only other option is to reach the ruins by taking a bus from the little town of Aguas Calientes which is often referred to just as Machu Picchu. You can also catch a train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes from where you can make a day trip to the ruins. However, we would always suggest that you make your base at Aguas Calientes for an overnight stay; in that way, you can take your time and explore the magic of the ruins rather than rushing back for catching the return train. You will find loads of accommodations of all ranges.
2. Visiting Machu Picchu by foot
There are multiple hiking trails to the ruins, the most popular being the Classic Inca Trail which would take about 4-5 days. If you want to avoid this touristy and expensive route you can choose from a number of cheaper alternatives such as the Cachicata Trek, Condensed Inca Trail, Huchuy Qosqo Trek, Lares Trek, Vilcabamba Trek and the Salkantay Trek all of which takes between 2-6 days. Since it is prohibited to hike on your own, you should make sure to contact fellow travelers to form a sanctioned group or talk to a tour agency.
The other option, again, is to take a bus from the little town of Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu which runs every 15-20 minutes.
More into taking the path less traveled? Check out Machu Picchu’s impressive neighbor Choquequirao– recently nameda Best Destination of 2017 by Lonely Planet.
3. Exploring Machu Picchu
Although it is entirely possible to explore the ruins by yourself, yet we would always recommend you to take a guided tour of the site. Just a few weeks ago, a team member from LIP visited the ruins and encountered many aimless tourists who had wished they had paid the minimal fee for a guided tour.
You can either go for a group tour by contacting one of the numerous agencies in the nearby towns or you can ask your hotel to arrange a group tour with a private guide. Moreover, you will find lots of guides waiting outside the entrance most of whom are fairly proficient in English. Make sure to bargain with them to get a decent rate.
4. Highlights of the Ruins
Some of the more fascinating highlights of the ruins are the Temple of Condor, the Sun Gate, the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of the Three Windows and the Intihuatana rock.
The Sun GateTemple of the Condor
5. Wrapping it up:
Keep in mind that the Incan ruins at Machu Picchu are one of the most spectacular ruins on the globe, so make sure to get your tickets well in advance since only a limited number of tourists are allowed each day. The weather here tends to be damp and misty so the ideal time to visit the ruins would be around late May-August which is also the peak season.
When it comes to one of my favorite topics of discussion, archeology, there is no better location for discussion than Peru.
Peru has so much history and is definitively excellent in terms of culture and mystery. You can find treasures untold through personal exploration by traversing mountains, hiking through jungles, or pacing through sand. Nowadays, you certainly don’t have to be Hiram Bingham to discover the beauty of Peru, but dressing the part might help.
I have compiled a list of the most profound observable archeological sites that you can include in your itinerary.
1. The Nazca lines are steeped in shadowy mystery.
Most people will venture to this site and be dazzled into submission by the geometric figures, but if you peer even deeper, you will find suspiciously straight lines and accurate depictions of birds and wildlife. A flyover is necessary to witness this majesty in person, as these depictions can only be viewed from above. It is easy to pick out favorites, mine being the condor which I painfully had tattooed on my ribs!
Additionally, around the city of Nazca, you will find the ruins of the Nazca culture which flourished between 100 AD and 800 AD. Grand temples and pyramids are found stretched over a vast area half buried in the desert. This advanced civilization included astounding aqueducts that still function in the desert today! Researchers will most likely never uncover the full extent of these cities. Tours can be arranged, which I hope to do someday soon.
2. No list of archeology and Peru would be complete without including Machu Picchu, but did you know that even higher up exists another site similarly titled Huayna Picchu?
Both sites are magnificent and include an impressive architecture that almost seamlessly immerses itself with the mountains. No wonder the Spanish conquistadors couldn’t locate these sites! To get to the latter of the two, you will need a few more hours available to climb up and down another mountain. You can pace through these areas for hours without the slightest hint of boredom.
3. Sacsayhuaman is relatively familiar to many people because of the massive stones used within its walls.
This site sits on the edge of Cuzco, overlooking the grand skyline of the city. A short hike up a mountain will lead you to the confines of this area. Feel free to explore as llamas traverse the landscape with you. You will be amazed by the many 20 ton stones used to construct the site, as well as the lush green that coexists peacefully with this artwork.
4. Lastly, you can bring many of these experiences into one by visiting the local museums.
The curators pride themselves in having extensive collections, and questions are encouraged. You can find many world-renowned museums throughout Cuzco and Lima, adding worth to any vacation you may take. The fun never stops there of course when discussing Peru. You could take a dozen vacations there and still never capture the full image of this country. On top of archeology, you can find beauty in rainforests, colorful mountains, or the diverse flora and fauna. I hope you will take the journey soon!
Cusco the former stronghold of the Inca Empire in the Andes, is generally used by travelers as a launching pad for the journey to Machu Picchu.
However, this city with its interesting blend of Spanish and Incan influences has now become a Mecca for backpackers. In today’s post, we are going to talk about some of the best places to visit in this city.
1. Plaza de Armas
The cultural center of Cusco, the Plaza de Armas is lined with cafes, eateries, and pubs most of which offer a superb view of the square. The imposing statue of Pachacuti– an Incan warrior dominates the center of the Plaza.
Make sure to visit the splendid cathedral of Cusco which symbolizes the Spanish invasion and houses a replica of “The Last Supper’ painting by Da Vinci. Make sure to take a close look at the painting to find a “cuy” (guinea pig) on one of the dishes.
Plaza de Armas in Cusco (Photo: Flickr)
2. San Pedro Market
This colorful market with its fruit, vegetable and meat stalls is sure to appeal to any photography enthusiast. If you are having altitude sickness then make sure to scour some cocoa leaves to suck on.
You will also find many empanada and tamales stalls which also serve meals at a very cheap price.
San Pedro Market (Photo: Flickr)
3. Sacsayhuaman
If you walk (or take a tour by bus in 15 minutes) 45 minutes from the plaza, you will reach this prehistoric Inca site which comes with a brilliant view of the city. Originally a religious site, Sacsayhuaman was also the ground for a bloody war between the Incas and the Spanish colonizers.
Make sure to hire a guide to get a proper understanding of the history of this site. The trek to Sacsayhuaman would also allow you to take a peek at the massive statue of Christo Blanco which looms over the city.
Sacsayhuaman in Cusco (Photo Wikimedia Commons)
4. San Blas District
A short but steep walk from the Plaza de Armas would take you to the picturesque Sans Blas District which is famous for its quaint shops and interesting architecture. The Hatunrumiyoc road which was originally constructed by the Incas is a reminder of the city’s Inca past.
You will find a remarkable cobblestone house which dominates the neighborhood. San Blas is also notable for its tiny boutique stores and galleries which line the roads where you will find many authentic souvenirs. Make sure to stop at the Pantastico bakery for some delightful savories.
San Blas District (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
5. Coricancha
The Korikancha or the Sun Temple is the greatest example of the entwining Incan and Spanish influence in the city.
The Sun Temple of the Incas which was once covered with sheets of gold was totally despoiled by the conquistadores, who constructed the Santo Domingo church on the ruins of the former temple.
Wrapping it up:
Cusco has many other delights to offer other than the ones mentioned above. While you are at it, try to get a feel of the vibrant nightlife of Cusco which can be best enjoyed in the numerous clubs and pubs in and around the city square. The Mama Africa club with its electronic and hip-hop beats is a cool place to unwind after a hectic day. The Ukukus Bar is yet another fantastic nightclub where you can enjoy live music.
The Sacred Valley of the Incas is one of the must-see places for tourists to visit when going to Cusco.
Among 2018’s highlights, it is worth mentioning that Peru remains one of the favorite places for visitors from all over the globe. The September issue of the U.S edition of the renown international magazine “Marie Claire” dedicated 13 pages to the Sacred Valley of the Incas by using wonderful photographs of landscapes such as the Moray Archaeological Complex and the Maras Salt Mines.
The September issue of fashion magazines is considered the most important of the year because it sets the tone in design for the next 12 months. Behind the camera was world-renowned fashion photographer Michelangelo Di Battista, and Pauline Hoarau was the model.
There is a wide range of reasons why Marie Claire’s staff may have decided to use the Valley of the Incas for their pages, however, the increasing number of tourists from the U.S may be the true reason behind it. Peru took the throne as the top destination for tourists from the U.S in South America by dethroning Brazil.
Appearing on Marie Claire will surely boost status among the most popular tourist destinations in the world, presenting the country as an attractive and exclusive destination for tourists interested in ancient cultures, nature, and imposing landscapes. Furthermore, this can also help promoting Peru as a destination for locations for the making of films, music videos, and TV shows.
What magazines do you think can feature Peru’s landscapes on their pages in 2018?
When Niki Coate came to Cusco eight years ago, she had a degree in journalism, a master’s degree in literature, a backpack and a ring in her nose.
(Photo: Flickr)
She also had a wide and genuine smile that enabled her to make friends easily. With friends, we went on a trip out of the city, and we certainly had a great time at night in the bars of San Blas. What Niki was certainly in no hurry to do was go home.
She spent her first three months traveling around Peru, but would inevitably return to Cusco. She had to go to the border to put her immigration status to rights before starting another three months, which is the time allowed on a tourist visa. Niki felt comfortable on the streets of Cusco. She felt inspired by the mountains, the mysticism of the Andes and the energy that emanates from this city as by few others or none.
Thus meditating, one day she realized she needed two spaces: one to live in and another to practice Reiki.
“I found a house in the end, but it was too expensive. So I started to rent rooms and people who came were dedicated to these healing arts. And that is how the Healing House came to be. A place where we practice different types of yoga, reiki, ecstatic dance, taichi and chi gong, among others, and where teachers of different ancient disciplines come to teach us”, she says.
Niki defines the Healing House as essentially a “house of light”, a center for the study and practice of ancestral traditions of wisdom. In its seven years of existence, the Healing House has become famous among visitors and residents; it offers a place not only for the communion of mind, spirit, and body but also for promoting a lucid and holistic lifestyle.
The energy of the city that captivated Niki, did the same to Jorge Cereceda, a young musician conceived in Rioja but born in Chiclayo. After a life of traveling around Peru, learning the mysteries of medicinal plants and the importance of local sounds and their close connection with the cosmovision of the Andes, he settled in the Sacred Valley. At home with his wife Magaly and children Mayu and Sol, he heads a project called Healing Sounds (Sonidos que Curan).
(Photo: Flickr)
“It is a healing circle in which we use the power of vibration and sound to give strength to desires such as harmony, healing, happiness, and joy. Sound and vibration have the power to intensify and manifest these desires”, he explains. He says that the best thing is to find a place in the open air, in the countryside or among ancient ruins. Once there you form a circle, breathe deeply and meditate, and then receive a series of sounds – unique tones that evoke an ancestral past, and together create a special state of peace.
“At the end, we work in silence and then describe what we felt and give thanks if there is a reason to do so. Each person is a different world”, he adds.
Interest in the art of meditation in Peru has grown rapidly. Although there are no figures to measure its popularity by, Monica Paz, a teacher at Lima Yoga certified since 2011, believes we are seeing a boom in the practice and in healthier lifestyles. “This fact has persuaded people to choose yoga and meditation because they make you feel more relaxed and happier, with lower levels of anxiety. I remember that when I started in 2006, in New York, I came to visit Lima and almost nobody knew anything about the subject. When I decided to become a teacher there were only two studios in Lima, including Lima Yoga. Today you only have to walk around the city to see the words ‘yoga’ or ‘meditation’ somewhere.”
And even though Lima, the capital of Peru, is probably the city with the largest number of practitioners of this activity, many want to escape the metropolis and seek somewhere more suitable for a full and harmonious life. Daniel Grisolle and Andrea Calderon are two of such people, a couple who, with the arrival of their daughter a year ago decided to leave the capital and move to Mancora on Peru’s northern coast.
“We love yoga. It became part of my life in 2011 and Daniel discovered it later” says Andrea. “I love it because when you think you’ve reached a point of understanding you realize that in fact, you don’t know anything, that you’ve started again from the beginning and it’s time to row in another direction and explore new possibilities. There is no end to yoga, it is delicious, self-exploratory and above all, it shows things in their purest and plainest form.”
A normal day for them starts by being woken early by Emma, their daughter just over a year old, and having a hearty breakfast. “Then I give yoga classes or practice yoga. I feel a need to bathe in the sea with Emma to refresh and recharge ourselves with energy” adds Daniel. Today the Grisolle Calderon family live where they can eat fresh fish and fruit juice; they have started their new restaurant, called Tokuyo -Peruvian and Japanese fusion cuisine- and are building a healthy family life together. There is no doubt that it was meditation, lucidity and a clear mind that led this couple onto the right road.
(Photo: Flickr)
The same can be said of Daniel Lerner, born in Lima, but who found himself in San Roque de Cumbaza, San Martin, in Peru’s northern jungle. At present, he is managing a tourism project concentrating on rural communitarian tourism and travelers who, he says “seek an alternative experience with the community through its culture, traditions and a deep understanding of nature and its beautiful resources”. Daniel is moved by the power of medicinal plants, the nature that surrounds him, the river murmuring in his ears as he sleeps, and the peace he has found with his family in a corner of the Peruvian Amazon.
Then there is Pierina Zlatar who, after studying, traveling around the world, getting married and experimenting with healing courses and yoga, decided to go back to her roots: back to the jungle. Though she was raised in the village of Quince Mil, in Cusco, she decided to settle down in Puerto Maldonado, Madre de Dios, where she founded Kapievi Ecovillage, which she calls “her dream”. “I bought a piece of land that was just pasture and worked hard with the help of my children and friends to make something of it and started to create my dream. Now we have courses in permaculture and yoga, orchids, Amazon art, vegetarian food, land for children and different workshops depending on who comes to share their experiences. Now we are five families living permanently in the ecovillage”, she explains.
Niki tells me, with her 5-month-old son Django in her arms, that according to an Inca legend we are nearing the Golden Age. “Many people think that in the nineteen seventies the center of spiritual energy changed from the Himalayas to the Andes. The legend of Wiracocha, creator of the Inca world, tells that he sent different forms of wisdom to the four corners of the earth, and that today everyone who makes a pilgrimage to Cusco, as well as all those who come without realising that they are on a pilgrimage, are bringing links to this wisdom back. And these links, this meeting of the paths of wisdom, are essential for the arrival of the new era”.
Spirituality and syncretism go strong among the native communities in Peru. The unique view of the world they share, gives us a new way of seeing our place among the stars.
In August the nights and early mornings in the Andes are freezing. During the day the sun is burning white and the fields and pastures yellow and moribund. So the alpaca herders who live more than four thousand metres above sea level around Mount Ausangate, pay their dues to Pachamama (Mother Earth).
Pachamama accepts chicha, cigarettes, spirits, coca leaves, llama fat and many other useful items, while those who make the payment pray to the most important apus or mountains. They also give thanks for the harvest and ask that she should continue to be generous in the future. Mother Earth deserves prayers, flirting and festivities. In this area, there is a network of lodges built by two communities of shepherds associated with a tour operator in Cusco. By using them, travellers become immersed in the dramatic scenery of the Andes and in the lives of the highland communities.
(Photo: Pixabay)
“Mother Earth deserves prayers, flirting and festivities.”
Ice dancers
Ausangate is the highest mountain in the Department of Cusco. It is the source of the rivers on which the crops in the valleys depend, before they flow down to the jungle and thus to the sea. The herders’ ancient folk tales say that the Amazon creates the clouds that then return to the mountain. They discharge their water in the form of snow, and a new cycle of life begins. Ausangate faces Mount Sinakara, which is its tinkuy, an opposite and complementary mountain, with which it joins to form a new entity. This opposition is like female and male; light and darkness; black and white; or two rivers that join to form one: tinkuy.
The Green Pastors and Snowy Peaks of Mount Ausangate. (Photo: Megapixel)
At the end of May or beginning of June every year, thousands of people arrive from all over the region and congregate for several days on the plain of Sinakara, more than 4500 metres above sea level, where there is a small Jesuit church. The pilgrims, in plastic tents, sing and dance day and night dressed in coloured costumes, and chew coca leaves —that great and much sought after Andean plant—, but are prohibited from drinking alcohol. On the main day of the festival, they climb to the top of the mountain in groups called “nations”, to touch the snow.
They also pray and kiss the water; until recently they cut blocks of ice that they would take back home —this has now been prohibited by the locals “because of climate change”, according to the masked “pabluchos” guardians of the festival—. The extreme weather begins in May and intensifies in August. On Qoyllorit’i, the community revives the water cycle, and the desire and need for the melted snow to reach their homes in the form of a river. There is also dancing and veneration for Our Lord of the Snows, who appeared to a group of herdsmen and whose image can be seen on a rock inside the Jesuit chapel.
The next festival after Qoyllorit’i is Corpus Christi. There are several facets to this fiesta: on the one hand, it is a Catholic festival in which images of saints and the Virgin Mary are paraded through the streets of Cusco and which was superimposed upon an older festival dating from the time of the Incas. This in turn derived from an even more ancient ritual: that of the June solstice that marked the beginning of the Andean year.
Songs that cure and stars that teach
To the water, the moon, the sun, lightning, the seas, the snake and the jaguar, ayahuasca, cotton, and tobacco. To the caves and the mountains. To the rivers and lake. Temples have been built to honour all of these, symbols designed, walls painted and rocks carved to explain traditional myths and folktales that survive to this day.
Several of the most emblematic and visited parts of Cusco draw upon this relationship with nature.
Tipon is a temple dedicated to water and shows the Incas’ extensive understanding of hydraulic engineering; Kylla, the moon, is venerated at Quillarumiyoq and the circular terraces of Moray were used for agricultural experiments with crops brought from other places. The walls of the churches in Huaro and Andahuaylillas -part of the Andean Baroque Trail– bear Catholic catechisms in the form of opulent murals fused with pre-Hispanic iconography. These and many other churches in the southern Andes contain paintings of the Virgin Mary having a triangular design that resembles the mountains, the apus of pre-Hispanic cosmology.
The Terraces of Moray. (Photo: Pixabay)
In addition to nature as a whole, the heavens are a source of essential information for agriculture, animal husbandry, health, warfare, and forestry.
The constellation of the Pleiades, known as the Seven Sisters or Qollqa provides information on the weather during the year, depending on the intensity and clarity of its stars. If they are large and brilliant there will be plenty of water; if not, the people and their crops will suffer. The Aimara people of Lake Titicaca predict the weather from the height that the kaiñola bird builds its nest in the totora reeds: if it is high up, there will be rain and the level of the lake will rise. When the Huambisas or Shuares of the Peruvian and Ecuadoran jungle die, they travel along the rainbow to the land of their ancestors, and they give it the same name as the boa: pagki. Chanquillo, the oldest astronomical observatory in the Americas, lies in the Ancash desert near to the San Rafael Valley, consisting of a hill with three towers aligned from north to south, which predict the equinoxes, solstices, and movements of the sun throughout the year.
Lake Titicaca (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
This ancient cosmology complements western astronomy to provide a better understanding of the cosmos and to reveal more of its beauty.
Several planetariums in Colca, the Sacred Valley, Cusco and Nasca offer this experience: knowledge of the constellations and mythologies of the highlands and desert together with occidental astronomy. In Alto Marañon, near the border with Ecuador, the Aguaruna women sing icaros —a style of chant that makes those who listen to it want to change— when they go out to their fields of cassava. In those anem, a term that also refers to the heart and mind, the women plead with Nunkui, the deity of the earth, to be generous and to let the cassava grow plentiful and disease free. Meanwhile, their menfolk sing ícaros to the “mother” of the Huanganas asking for permission to hunt the wild boar and requesting that there be no accidents. The animals and plants have their “mother”, who is the spiritual entity or collective essence of the species. In turn, the old wachiperis, in the jungle of the Amarakaeri Communal Reserve, sing eshuva, songs that cure disease and have been recognised as world intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.
The faith healers of Chiclayo and Huancabamba (Piura), two of the major centres of shamanism in Peru, perform elaborate ceremonies that make use of a wide range of products. Some are from the ancient traditions of cultures that once lived there. Others are clearly influenced by Catholicism, as can be seen from the images of saints and the Virgin Mary, prayers, crucifixes and a variety of other religious regalia. Near Chiclayo is Ventarron, where archaeologist Ignacio Alva discovered some of the oldest polychromatic wall paintings in the Americas (2600 B.C.) One of them shows a deer trapped in a net. The painting is located in a ceremonial setting containing seats and ritual hearths. These ancient and pioneering Peruvian farmers would pray to their gods to protect their small fields of cotton, pumpkin or beans from attack by deer.
Humanity is shared
“Being human is normal and differences arise from appearances and how we see each other and relate to the world.”
We are all human beings. Plants, animals, waterfalls, caves, and mountains all share a humanity that is not exclusive to the human race. We live in an animist universe in which the beings that populate it have different degrees of humanity and enjoy intent and will. Being human is normal and differences arise from appearances and how we see each other and relate to the world. In western thought, nature is “something” that is there to be used by us; but for other ways of viewing the world, such as those of the coast, highlands, and jungle of Peru, culture and nature are two sides of the same coin: the vital force that makes us human.
(Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
Men and women living in such a world must, therefore, know how to relate to all such beings.
It is no longer possible to simply manage and use nature indiscriminately as if it were a simple object. It has humanity and so we must negotiate and ask permission from everything that is a part of it, to ensure success in the fields or the hunt, to ensure health and a happy family, to be a great warrior or to understand the origin of illness.
This requires an extensive knowledge of the environment, which favours harmony between such societies and nature. This has nothing to do with the “noble savage” having an idyllic relationship with the environment, rather a knowledge of the requirements that must be met to ensure preservation and respect for nature while obtaining what we need from her. This knowledge is passed from parents to children through myths and legends. Such legends are as schools of thought that share knowledge, techniques for managing the environment, codes of behaviour and values that make us human…
This way of living and seeing the world, this certainty that humanity is shared and not exclusive to us, is not only alive and well but is very relevant today, given the ecological and ideological crises afflicting the world in which we live.
Are you traveling to Peru soon, or plan to sometime within the foreseeable future? If so, you may want to think about the elevation difference.
If you are traveling to the many popular tourist destinations in Peru, it is likely that the altitude there will be higher than what you are accustomed to at home.
When I flew into Cuzco, it was instantly recognizable that I was much higher up in elevation than I was used to. One who does not travel frequently may not realize that with great altitude comes great headaches. Altitude sickness is extremely common to people who make the journey, especially those who travel to areas surrounding Cuzco, like Machu Picchu.
So, how do you relieve, or even prevent altitude sickness altogether?
I personally knew nothing about this plaguing effect until I read some prominent literature before I arrived in Peru. The effects of this temporary condition can include headaches, trouble sleeping, nausea, shortness of breath, and inability to exercise.
Trekking to Machu Picchu (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
The cases can range from mild to life-threatening in very extreme cases and can last up to three days. It will be easy to figure out if you are experiencing these conditions, as they will appear within hours of your arrival. This can dampen any spirits of adventure, especially since I know I get anxious to explore and make memories as soon as I get to my travel destination.
I can honestly say that I experienced no altitude sickness after my arrival, and to say the least, I was pleasantly surprised.
I was able to explore the city of Cuzco, and all of its amenities the second after we checked into the Del Prado Inn. Hindsight is 20/20, but I attribute my success to several factors; being in shape, physical activity upon arrival, and coca leaf tea/leaves.
When you travel to Peru, it’s almost expected that some sort of physical activity will be involved. Whether it’s pacing the endless streets, climbing to see Sacsayhuaman, or heading to Machu Picchu, it’s a good idea to be in shape for your trip. Overall, maintaining a healthy diet and exercise routine are the best ways to stay in shape longterm, but if you’re not there yet, just make sure to give yourself a nice kick in the butt before your trip. You owe it to yourself anyway, and it will make your travels to Peru that much more enjoyable, especially if your body can endure the increased stress of heightened elevation.
On Top of Machu Picchu (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
I experienced a slight shortness of breath after my arrival, but I powered through it by climbing hills and seeing the sights.
My suggestions:
Don’t take a nap when you get to your hotel, go see the Jesus statue, Sacsayhuaman, or any number of museums in Cuzco. Stay active, and it’s likely that your body will continue to perform the way you want it to. Don’t overwork yourself though, make sure to take nice deep breaths and gradually ascend any hills or mountains. Staying extra hydrating can assist in overcoming symptoms as well.
Editor’s note: additional recommendation is not to drink alcohol (okay, just a glass!) or eat too much food during your first 24 hours in Cuzco, you will thank me later!
Lastly, and I think most importantly, coca leaves can be your saving grace. Whether it be chewing them, or enjoying them in a nice hot cup of tea, they are very well known for relieving, or even preventing the effects of altitude sickness. This Peruvian staple has a unique flavor that I didn’t find off-putting, especially the tea. You can purchase a nice hot cup at any number of locations around the city.
Follow these simple guidelines and you won’t be disappointed. If anything, you will experience minor symptoms that you’ll find easily manageable. If your conditions worsen, or you are having trouble breathing or moving, consult a local doctor. You may need a little extra oxygen and some care from a professional. Be careful out there and enjoy your stay in Peru!
Meet the Vegabrothers, world travelers, and professional Youtubers who came to Peru to do a virtual reality tour of Machu Picchu but couldn’t resist coming a few days earlier to explore Lima and Cusco.
In this video, they not only feature beautiful cinematography capturing the best of Peru, give travel advice and tips, but also offer a ton of historical and modern information about the country in a very entertaining way.
In a nutshell, the video highlights everything one should know before they go to Peru. Enjoy!
To make the most of your trip to Peru you should include a few more things in your itinerary apart from just a trip to Lima and Machu Picchu.
Peru has a lot of unique experiences to offer its visitors starting from adventure activities, haunted vaults and one of the loveliest train journeys on the planet.
In this post, we are going to talk about some of the best quirky experiences you can have in Peru.
1. Catacombs of the San Francisco de Lima Basilica and Convent
The crypts of San Francisco which is more popular by the name of ‘catacumbas’ is a series of subterranean vaults constructed underneath the chapels of this church which were in use till the early 19th centuries and served as a burial site for members of the fraternities and brotherhoods. A tour in the ‘catacumbas’ is sure to be a gory one as you will be able to sight plenty of skulls, femurs, and tibias of the monks who were buried here in the past centuries. At least 25,000 bodies lie in the catacomb making it the second largest of its kind after that of Paris.
Circle of bones in the catacombs under the San Francisco Monastery (Photo and Description/ Flickr)
Many travelers in Peru make it to the ancient geoglyphs of the Nazca Desert but most of them fail to include the magical oasis town of Huacachina in their itinerary. Nestled in the middle of one of the driest parts of the planet, the tiny town of Huacachina with less than 100 residents would make you feel as if you are in a tiny hamlet in the Sahara. Visitors can go there on a day trip from Nazca to watch the sunset on the beautiful oasis. Moreover, one can also engage in some adventure activities such as buggy riding and sand boarding.
One of the most fascinating places to visit in Peru, the Lake Titicaca is inhabited by the Uros people who dwell on islands crafted out of living reeds which keep floating around the lake. The Uros people were forced to move to the lake when the Incas expanded into their area. These days, plenty of backpackers head to Puno from where they take a local boat to the floating islands of the Uros. Spending a night on the Taquile Island can also be a superb idea.
One of the less explored Inca sites of the country, Tipon which can be reached within 30 minutes from Cusco has a lot to offer its visitors. One of the most architecturally impressive ruins of the Sacred Valley, this is a relatively tourist free area where you can witness the marvelous Inca terracing, beautifully designed water channels and even some aqueducts and reservoirs from Inca times.
What makes Tipón an interesting Incan site is the sophisticated water distribution through the agriculture terraces, water running through stone-lined channels and out spouts to different levels and parts. (Photo & description: Wikimedia)
5. A trip in the Belmond Andean Explorer
This luxury sleeper train which would take you from Cusco to Puno in about 10 hours is surely one of the best ways to enjoy the jaw-dropping views of the Peruvian Andes. You will get to cross many breathtaking towns and natural wonders on your journey from Cusco to Puno and Arequipa while the mind-blowing interiors of the cabins are surely going to add a whole new dimension to your experience.
Have you ever imagined crossing the impressive Peruvian Andes by train? Now, you are able to do so in the first South American luxury sleeper train, Belmond Andean Explorer.
With its topographical wonders and the majestic historical ruins lying amidst the verdant nature, Peru is a country which offers amazing paragliding opportunities.
In recent years, both paragliding and parasailing have become extremely popular in Peru. There are a number of sites across the country that provides excellent conditions for this adventure sports and attract lots of tourists from all over the world.
Numerous cliffs and steep hilltops serve as great launching pads. The climate of Peru with its specific wind-patterns and visibility also favors high altitude tandem flights.
So, if you are really into the thrills of paragliding adventures you must visit Peru. Here are three of the top paragliding sites in Peru:
1. Miraflores, Peru
The magnificent Miraflores’ cliffs near downtown Lima is one of the most popular paragliding sites in the entire world. Flying here is a unique experience where the flyer gets to paraglide over a combination of breathtaking city and coastal landscapes. There are a number of tourist services that offer excellent tandem flights and paragliding lessons.
A regular flight will absolutely take your breath away with the panoramic views of the cliffs and beaches of Lima, the gorgeous ocean and the coasts of Miraflores, Chorrillos, Barranco, Magdalena and San Miguel. In a regular 10 minutes flight, the participant can reach a maximum height of 250 meters.
Details: You can obtain detailed information at the local ‘paragliding port’ at the Raimondi Park.
Miraflores Paragliding (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)
2. Pachacamac
Pachacamac paragliding site in Peru offers thermodynamic flights. This means that you can reach a maximum of 1000 meters in your flights. In 20-25 minutes of high adrenaline flight, the participant gets to experience an awe-inspiring view of the picturesque Pachacamac valley amidst the verdant hills.
The spectacular sights of the ancient capital city of Peru and the vast Pacific Ocean are bound to take your breath away. If you really want to feel the thrill and the adrenaline-rush when your feet leave the ground cycling in the warm air, come to Pachacamac.
Details: The best season to come to Pachacamac for paragliding adventures is between October and April when the wind speed and the weather conditions are ideal for high altitude flyovers.
The majestic Sacred Valley in Cusco is yet another popular destination for the paragliding enthusiasts. The cliffs and steep slopes of the upper hills in the valley serve as fantastic launching pads for tandem flights. After you take off, you get a chance to spend at least 15-30 minutes in the air and experience amazing views of the landscape of the valley, its gorgeous mountain ranges and the famous Huaypo Lagoon.
Imagine being lucky enough to experience the splendid view of the ancient ruins from the air. The companies that organize tandem flights in the Sacred Valley region also provide excellent paragliding lessons and employ professional and highly experienced tandem flight pilots as instructors.
Details: You don’t need to carry your own paragliding equipment as those can be easily rented on the site.
(Photo: Flavio Huamani Quejia)
(Photo: Flavio Huamani Quejia)
